Brazilian Christmas

Thiago, Me, and Uli

Simply stated, the weather was against me. What was supposed to be a few pleasant days at the beach over Christmas ended up being a blah, 'this just wasn't meant to be' experience. My friend Thiago, who I met in Brazil through Alex, had invited me here from Buenos Aires to relax after the long journey. Neither of us could foresee the weather how it was, but we made the best of our time together. 

Thiago and his boyfriend Uli met me at the airport in Florianopolis, promptly welcoming me to Brazil with a white flowered Lei and a fresh Caipirinha. We drove one hour north to Balneario Camboriu where they live, a beautiful seaside city that looked like a mini Rio de Janeiro. They even have their own petite "Christ the Redeemer" statue. We met up with their friends for drinks and a late supper - I mean late as in 2:15 am supper! 

Atlantic Rainforest

Christmas Eve we woke up late and headed to the southern tip of the beach to what can best be described as small amusement park. Cable cars ferry people to the top of a small mountain that has a roller coaster, walking trails, cafes and Atlantic Rainforest preserve. While I was not excited to learn of the 5 varieties of poisonous snakes in the park, I was happy to have a quick getaway: a zip line over the canopy and down to the beach below. When we were next to go it started pouring rain, leaving stuck in snake world for 45 agonizing minutes more than I wanted. I was elated when it was finally our turn to go. 

From the mountaintop overlook Balneario Camboriu

The rain showing no signs of letting up, our hopes of spending some time on the beach deteriorated, leaving us no choice but to return to their 20th floor apartment overlooking the bay. 

Passion Fruit Caipirinha

Uli cooked while Thiago showed me how to make Caipirinhas in different flavors and alcohols. My favorites were sake with lime and passion fruit. I don't remember how many we drank, but I was sure it made the thought of eating lunch at 6:30pm tolerable. Why we even bothered to eat dinner I am not sure as it was 11:30 by time we sat down at the table. Uli had made a delicious chicken risotto dish that people from his home state cook on Christmas Eve. 

Glad I learned to make Caipirinhas 

We departed early Christmas Day for Florianopolis, hoping for some better weather and to relax at the seaside cottage we booked for the night. The rain wouldn't let up. Thankfully, the landlord's mother provided much needed comedic relief. Apparently, she is a witch. The give-away was a piece of green shrub she kept around her ear which is supposed to absorb bad energy; if it withers quickly, it means there was a lot of bad energy. Thankfully its color didn't fade. 

Uli's Christmas Dinner

Thiago found one of the few restaurants open for lunch and boy I couldn't have been happier: a real Brazilian steakhouse. Beef, lamb, pork, and chicken; fifteen cuts of meat - I tried it all. I was offering at Chinese BBQ. They were cooked to perfection, full of flavor for their simple seasoning. I was reunited with slow roasted chicken hearts, a common offering at Chinese BBQ. Not a single vegetable or side dish touched my plate. Somewhere in the world right now, Señor Bourdain is reading this and smiling. 

We spent the rest of the afternoon at a bar with some of Thiago and Uli's friends up on the north point of the island next to a few resorts and large beach houses. Desperate for a nap, it was decided we should all rendezvous later in the evening for dinner and to go out to a club. At 10:30, we left the house for downtown Florianopolis under the false assumption there would be numerous restaurants open as the air of Christmas had finally passed. 

Christmas Lunch

Bitter irony struck when, having found no where to eat, we settled on McDonalds. I know what you must be thinking, "But why, Ried?". Having joked to Uli before the trip that I was a picky eater and prayed we could have McDonalds, the three of us could do nothing but laugh to the point of tears. We cut our losses for the night, skipped the club, and got lost twice trying to find our way home. Thanks, Thiago!

The trip was by all accounts a failure, yet at the same time it was one of the best. Of the many unexpected things that happened, this trip proved that friendship and people are the source of the real magic when traveling.