Malaysia 2.0

Scorpion Fish
Courtesy, Alex

Another year, another fantastic trip to Malaysia. Returning to the island of Borneo, we came to Kota Kinabalu, a Chinese fisherman's settlement on the northeast coast along the South China Sea. Its name literally translates to the "Coast of the Chinese Widow." The city was destroyed in WWII, but has been rebuilt rather quickly in the last few decades. We came here for scuba diving (of course) and had 3 days and 1 night of fairly decent dives, albeit the first dive involved a boat ride through nothing short of a 30 minute monsoon. 

Spotted BoxfishCourtesy, Alex

Last summer we were fortunate to have dived Sipidan several days. Kota Kinabalu was the polar opposite. Over fishing in the area has dwindled the population to nonexistence. From the moment we entered the water we knew something was dreadfully wrong. The corals were not as widespread, few decent sized fish could be seen, and the water was very murky. Our hearts sank at a local fish market in town where exotic fishes, sharks, crustaceans, and other marine species were vividly displayed to hungry eyes ready to devour each and every one of them. 

Canopy walk

Two extra days allowed for further exploration of the island and a relief from the depressing surrounding waters. Borneo is a beautiful island covered by rain forests - where my nemesis the Coral Snake can be found in abundance. A van brought us deep into the interior where we got to explore Mt. Kinabalu, the highest mountain on Borneo (over 13,000 ft) with spectacular scenic views along the way. Whilst there we did a fair amount of hiking along the steep, damp trails. The best part was the canopy walk high up in the trees; at one point it was 150 ft to the bottom!

Living in the Moment

That evening, we boarded a river cruise in search of the "funny-nosed monkeys" (real name: Proboscis Monkey). The boat encountered numerous monkeys high up in the trees lining the river, however, they were beyond the reach of our camera lenses and thus we didn't get any good photos. Still, the cruise was peacefully slow and was the perfect way to sit back, relax, and forget about everything else in the world. 

I'll bet you can't guess which monkey this is!
Courtesy, unknown Malaysian website

On the second day, a local guide took us in search of the rafflesia flower, the world's largest. Averaging a three foot radius, it is surprisingly an elusive flower which blooms for just five days a year. Size not withstanding, it is perhaps most well known for smelling like rotten meat! No honey bees to found near these, instead swarms of flies relish in rafflesia's formidable odeur. Thankfully we did not get close enough to verify the stench, however, that didn't stop us getting charged about $10 USD for five minutes to see it. 

Rafflesia Flowers

My favorite side trip was an evening at the Mari Mari cultural village, which has traditional Malay natives from 5 different tribes, and reconstructions of their respective villages (similar to Colonial Williamsburg). 

Mari Mari native
(or some kid who does this part-time)

Among the tribes, some were famous for being "head hunters" - no, I don't mean they worked with jobseekers. Instead, they would cut off the heads of their enemies, dry them out, shrink them, and finally, display them in their house to keep bad demons away; sometimes they were placed outside the house as warnings to others. One tribe in particular had a unique way of burying their dead: they would put the whole body in a clay jar (in a crouched position) and made a hole in the bottom for all the juices and gases from decomposition to escape, thus allowing the body to be "mummified" in the jar. At least this was cheaper than buying a coffin. 

I call this picture, Heaven

Back in Kota Kinabalu (KK for short) Alex and I spent a fair amount of our evenings wandering the city. To be more specific, we more or less ate our way through it. Every street was lined with family owned open-air restaurants, each claiming to have the best bakuteh in town. Considering that we probably indulged at no fewer than six of these establishments, our stomachs were quick to point out a clear winner that kindly was blessed with our presence twice. Bakuteh is a delicious slow-cooked meat-bone soup filled with Asian spices - far better than anything you'll find on a western soup menu. 

Kota Kinabalese Sunset
Courtesy, Alex

Moving on from KK, we scooted over to Penang (aka, Georgetown) on Malaysia's far west coast. This historic town that was founded by (you guessed it…) the British and named for the 'King of the Britain,' George III (yeah, remember that guy tyrant?) It is filled with many old streets and period architecture, as well as art and heritages from Indian, Chinese, and Arabian immigrants. We stayed in a renovated auberge in the style of a typical Chinese house in historic Georgetown. Admittedly this was not our first choice, I having stupidly booked a hotel further away on a beach isolated from the action, with horribly out-dated furnishings. I shall never forget the look of the receptionist when I told her we were checking out a mere 20 minutes after arriving.

The "William Watson Peace" pose. 

The change was worth it! Our cute little hotel gave us a splendid suite with an outdoor courtyard bathroom, a sitting room, and spacious bedroom. More importantly, we were within walking distance of pretty much everything! The streets were lined with vendors, artisans, and museums, including the headquarters of Dr. Sun Yat Sen - not surprising, Alex didn't want to see it. 

Courtyard entrance to
Pinang Peranakan

Nearby we stumbled upon a palatial standout from the other buildings, a green painted mansion covered in ornate moldings and Chinese murals. Pinang Peranakan, presently a museum, was once the home of a wealthy Chinese merchant family. Walking inside was like stepping into a miniature Biltmore Estate, indeed a home fit for a Rockefeller or Vanderbilt - I would say a Jay Gatsby, but perhaps his taste was a bit too eccentric for a home such as this. Antique collectibles from across Asia adorned the rooms: exotic wood furniture inlayed with mother of pearl; moldings painted in gold leaf; fine silk and embroideries; and more crystal than a Waterford store! The stain glass ceiling in the main foyer rivaled that of Tiffany's. 

Main Foyer, Pinang Peranakan

Wasn't me...

We visited the clan jetties, where homes are built on stilts over the water, and each one was of a different clan from China. People still live there today though mostly older generations. We walked around Fort Cornwallis (remember him too? This was his nephew) before lunch, then around the great lawn at the colonial center of Georgetown. It was easy to imagine countless European aristocrats attending polo matches, garden parties, and other fun gatherings that would have taken place here 100 years ago. Town Hall (which was a social club for British expatriates) has aged like a beautiful woman - a bit worn, yet classy as ever. 

Town Hall

My favorite eye candy was the beautifully restored Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion which presently doubles as a boutique hotel and art gallery. I had debated staying here but was turned off by the high price. Nearby, we had drinks at the bar of the Eastern and Oriental Hotel, one of those classic colonial-era hotels so loved by Anthony Bourdain. Indeed they have a magical charm to them - let alone a storied history. In fact, the owners also built the Raffles Singapore (no wonder it was so luxurious). 

Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion

White boy CAN jump!

G-town was overall very relaxing and fun. Streets were filled with merchants, locals, tourists from all corners of the globe, a delightfully mixed atmosphere. The aromas billowing from various street vendors' trolleys were mouthwatering. If that wasn't enough, another highlight of this incredible city can be found in the famous art murals scattered around old town. These masterpieces depict everyday life and found in the most obscure of places, yet provide a perfect setting for the context. For example, the picture on the right was in a small courtyard off the street. 

No riding on the sidewalk, please...

We escaped the heat by heading to Penang Hill, almost 3,000 ft up via a near-vertical cable car that'll send shivers down anyones spine, even those with nerves of steel. Breathtaking views await at the top, looking down to the Indian Ocean or back to the city - and even down at airplanes flying past. As we headed back, Alex pointed out what he considered to be a perfect photo-op: me with a 6 ft. Burmese python coiled around my neck like a scarf. "In your dreams," I replied. 

Atop Penang Hill

Malacca was our last destination, a very small and frankly boring town 90 minutes south of Kuala Lumpur. I am not exaggerating when I say we saw everything in just a few hours. Apparently, it was the Dutch who drove it into the ground from the shinning trading port it was under the Portuguese (and people said the Dutch knew how to make money). High taxes levied on ships stopping there caused business to vacate in favor of places such as Singapore and Johor. By time the British captured the city, it was strictly used for maintaining the straits of Malacca, and not long afterwards, was abandoned due to its inability to generate revenue. "Well I declare!"

Mardi Gras meets Carnival meets Pedicabs

Today, there are a few B-rated museums and exhibits chronicling Malaccas fabled history. There was a replica Portuguese cargo ship hollowed out to hold a maritime museum. Old church ruins were located on a hill top, and a the only remaining gate of a once mighty fortification at the bottom. Being the touristy place it is, there were plenty of pedicabs around, but unlike the ones in Beijing or elsewhere in Southeast Asia, these were decorated to the nines and played loud music. They are quite a spectacle to watch, far more entertaining than a Britney Spears concert (even though they were playing her songs [I think??]).

San Antonio Malacca River Walk

That evening, we enjoyed a river cruise taking in the architecture lining the canal. A mix of old and new, most of the buildings have full-sized murals painted on them. An enchanting sidewalk lines both banks, linked at one point by a replica of Venice's Rialto Bridge. The whole experience reminded me a lot of the San Antonio River Walk - minus the jewel in that tour's crown: a shopping mall. Though Malacca wasn't what I expected, at least the food was good. We went down a busy pedestrian street to a famous restaurant that serves up a Malaccan specialty, chicken rice balls. Not sure what it is about Asian balls that makes my mouth water. 

Sultan Abdul Samad Building
Independence Square

Whereas France isn't France without a stop in Paris, nor England the same without London, no trip to Malaysia bypasses Kuala Lumpur. One night was plenty, just a short stay over before heading back to Beijing. KL is a foodie paradise (not that the rest of the country isn't) so we had our last bits of good laksa and bakuteh. We met one of Alex's friends for dinner and happily passed out early. I caught the Hop On, Hop Off bus to tour the city the following morning, having not really seen the city before. Big mosque here, bigger mosque there, islamic architecture, Petronas Towers, it was all fine and dandy - and just a little gay. 

Orchid Garden

My favorite place was the Orchid Garden, which has many specimens of the over 700 orchid species native to Malaysia. Despite being in the one of the busiest cities in the world, that garden was a sliver of peace and serenity, and certainly has my vote as the best place to be in Kuala Lumpur. Until next time, I bid you, dear city, adieu. 

Petronas Towers, former holder of World's Tallest Buildings