North Korea - Part 4

DPRK Visa

Many people it turns out didn't quite believe me when I told them I was going to North Korea. Frankly, I didn't quite believe it myself either. To this day I still am coming to grips with the journey, all that I saw and experienced, and what, if any, clues might point to North Korea's future. 

Since leaving, the tension on the Korean Peninsula has escalated to "frightening" levels. Everyday in the news, North Korea has done 'x' and the United States and South Korean have done 'y'.

One of the newer, not-so-worn-out buses

The nuclear test conducted during my stay was a mark of great pride for the people. When we asked the guides how they felt, they were happy for the success. Their logic was that if America and other countries have nukes, why can't they? They are unaware that the west doesn't provoke countries with nukes the way North Korea does...go figure; but as one member of the group pointed out, sometimes the bigger person is the one who says no to this technology. This same logic was used by our guides to justify everything from nuclear weapons to missiles and space technology. All the while, we continuously asked them why they want to pursue these military goals rather than attain reliable electricity, a steady food supply, or better infrastructure, etc. Pride it seems stands in the way.

Revolutionary monument

There were many soldiers marching around, mostly unarmed, but the random armed ones appeared in the most unlikely of places, such as the art studio or outside the bowling alley. I was very curious towards the soldiers I saw, trying to find patterns of rank and seniority. It was very hard, because the uniforms worn by young 'privates'  were also worn by men old enough to be my grandfather. None of them appeared to have any form of military bearing. The way they walked, carried themselves, looked around at things with little focus, seeing vs. observing, made me conclude there was a strong chance that half these people were not actual military. If they were then they must have retired long ago but still consider it an honor to wear the uniform. My point is that I saw men dressed as 'generals'  who acted more like homeless people that had been compensated a small fee to wear these uniforms and parade around in front of foreigners. It was bizarre to say the least. 

Inside an art studio

The rest of the troops who were younger and more physically fit could not hide the apparent malnutrition that screams from their physique. I saw no evidence that could convince me the military provides any real threat. Of course, I will be the first to agree that what I saw as a foreigner was not necessarily true throughout the rest of the country; but, I will remind you that it is honor to live in Pyongyang, so only the best North Korea has to offer would be located here.

I will hand it to the people: they know how to survive. They reuse everything and waste nothing. I was very critical watching the public transportation, specifically buses that were from the 70's still operating, albeit appearing to have been pulled from a scrapyard. But they are still running. The people ignore(it seems) the splendor of new technology for the reliability (I imagine) of something that simply works; I can't say for certain because we didn't get to speak with any locals except those associated with our tour (flight attendants, hotel staff, guides, etc.) 

Boys with new roller blades

But, actions speak louder than words: there was a little girl who ran and jumped into her grandfather's warm and open arms, with the happiest look on both their faces; the boy who was putting on his new roller blades and eager to join the other kids; the various children who smiled and would say, "Hello" to us foreigners, and even threw up a peace sign. We were always treated wonderfully by our hosts at the various hotels, inns, and restaurants. They genuinely wanted to make our stay comfortable. Strangers on the street gave us simple smiles, showing that indeed they too are humans.

The wealth gap was as easy to see as day and night. It sickened me to see the splendor of the upper class and what the Kims have built while millions of their people starved to death and many others imprisoned for no reason, some even executed. The men on the plane were just as happy as could be, obviously successful crooks (how else would they be allowed out of the country). They thrive in their corrupt, illicit activities, while commoners struggle to find food and protection from the bitter cold. 

On the way back from the DMZ. 
Notice the line of concrete blocks scattered across the land.

Worst of all, Kim Il Sung installed himself and his heirs as demigods that are praised by their people. He was great at marketing. It was sickening to hear a guide say that he knew the Kims lived like the rest of the people because of "how they dressed - in simple, common clothes." The lavishness of the marble offices the guides have visited over and over still doesn't occur to them. They don't care to admit how deceitful their leaders have been. 

I left North Korea with far more questions than I did answers. When traveling there, I did my best to keep an open mind in order to better understand things from their point of view. The more I saw, the more some things made sense:

Dear Leaders ride with you
on the subway

"My way is one way, but not the only way" - as Uncle Rick always taught me. It's a great diplomatic saying that avoids conflict, and perhaps if all of us followed this, the world would be a more peaceful place; but, North Korea has proven this statement wrong. This is not a way to live. What I saw is unnatural, and it breaks my heart to admit that; but Kim Jung Un's regime, the way of life that has continued for 60 years in North Korea cannot continue anymore. It must stop. 

Regarding the recent events, all I can say is that any perceived threat from North Korea is empty rhetoric. They are not suicidal, and the regime is not going to risk losing its power by declaring all out war. The US will not use nuclear weapons; if anything, in my opinion, this saber rattling is a final stand of a dying regime. It will not sustain much longer, which brings me to the man behind the curtain: China. 

Another subway station mosaic

North Korea always claims that South Korea is a puppet to the United States master. In fact, it is North Korea that is a puppet for China, and it seems evident with the Chinese continuing to move forward with a power grid link to North Korea and daily supply lines of food and goods to North Korea; even at the airport all the liquor and cigarettes purchased duty free demonstrate that they will do whatever it takes (without compromising their economic prowess in the global economy) to keep North Korea as a buffer between them and the US backed South Korea. Hopefully, China will come to its senses and help manifest the death of the repressive regime; after all, my mama always said "don't bite the hand that feeds you!" I am sure that a sudden collapse of the regime is eminent, and China will most certainly try to assert its influence. Only time will tell.

Monument to Founding of Worker's Party

Anyone who is interested in taking a tour to North Korea, I highly recommend using Koryo Tours. They were absolutely fantastic.