36 Hours in Paris

Paris: the city of light and the city of love. For me, there is nothing quite like it anywhere in the world. Writers, artists, musicians, poets, and tourists alike have for centuries been drawn to this magical city. I myself have made the 'pilgrimage' no fewer than five times thus far, each visit different from the last. Of course one tends to see some of the same places over and over again, yet somehow the perspective always seems quite different and often enjoyably surprising. It was no coincidence that when booking our flights to Europe the best option brought us to Paris - nine long years since I'd last visited. Though we were only allotted a short time, it was enough for me to give Alex his first taste of France. 

Arc de Triomphe

Much has changed since my last time in France, beginning with how quickly I reached Paris by train. From Prague, we traveled to Mannaheim, Germany and connected to a high-speed train for Paris; 3 hours later, we were entering the Paris metro at Gare de L'Est (East Train Station). With such a short time in Paris, I decided to stay near the Louvre in the city center in order to maximize our time. Our hotel was a on a quiet side street, but unfortunately the room was on the top floor where the elevator didn't go, and was only accessible by a narrow spiral staircase. No time to complain, we grabbed the cameras, and were off. 

Anyone who has been to Paris knows that it is best seen on foot; and there is no better place to walk than along the Seine. We crossed through the Louvre bypassing the sculpture gallery before coming to the imposing Court Napoléon with the great glass pyramid at its center. A chilly wind swept over the centuries old cobblestones, twisting and turning in the courtyard as we glanced over the Tuillery Gardens and onwards toward the Rive Gauche (Left Bank). En route, we came to across a new footbridge that like Pont des Arts also is adorned with locks placed by couples, the keys thrown into the river below. We too placed a lock here, though thankfully (and environmentally conscious) it is a combination one so I suppose either of us can always go back and remove it. 

Beyond the river, we made our way to the Place Concorde where King Louis XVI, Marie-Antoinette, and thousands of others met their fate courtesy of Dr. Guillotin's one way journey to the afterlife. [In reality, the guillotine was itself invented by Antoine Louis.] For most this was a terrifying yet swift way to meet their maker, however, the architect of the French Revolution - Maxmilien Robespierre - was no doubt begging for it after his botched attempt at suicide when a pistol in his mouth only halfway finished the job. Note to the suicidal: make sure the gun is pointed up through your brain and not down your mouth or toward the mandible. You're welcome!

Strolling up the Champs-Élysées along dirt paths under trees with their fiery orange leaves, passing green painted 19th century park benches, it dawned on me that the endless barrage of high-end shops was just ahead, and perhaps it was better to take a different route. A sharp left turn brought us past the magnificent Grand Palais and onwards across Pont Alexandre III - of the most beautiful bridges in the world - towards Napoléon Bonaparte's  resting place at Les Invalides. The massive gold dome rises high above the skyline, like the man himself, ever striving to appear bigger than it really is. 

Drizzle turned to rain as we zigzagged through narrow streets to the Champs de Mars, a large grassy park in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower. Large, palatial apartment buildings flanked by several lavish free standing homes lined the way. It was too rainy to bring out the cameras, but that didn't stop a few groups of Asian tourists from reveling in their opportunity to document their "worldliness." One wedding couple had come for a photo shoot, and the poor bride seemed so upset by the rain on what I presume was the only chance for their photos. Ah, c'est la vie. 

We were bombarded by illicit street vendors as we passed beneath the Eiffel Tower, trying to sell us key chains, statues, and the like. Unlike China, bargaining the price down doesn't fetch you a big savings considering each item could be purchased in Beijing for $2 or so, a far cry from these fellas' advertised price of 20 Euro. 

After a short stop at the Arc de Triomphe for a photo, we hopped on the metro heading south for a visit to the famous Paris Catacombs. En route, a quick detour to Ile de la Cite - the oldest part of Paris - to see Notre Dame. My picky eater needed his feeding so we stopped at a famous little sandwich shop opposite the cathedral -- Subway.  

By time we reached the Catacombs, the line was incredibly long and last call was quickly approaching. We were fortunate to make it just before two handlers came out and cut the line off right behind us. I had tried to come here back in 2004 but it had been closed for maintenance. For those who are unaware, subterranean Paris is filled with tunnels, passageways, and abandoned mine shafts.  The ground is often compared to swiss cheese, which is the main reason why there are no skyscrapers or otherwise tall buildings inside the historic city - the foundation couldn't support them. 

As the city's population grew bigger and bigger, the cemeteries were filled to capacity. After a series of floods had caused exposure of mass graves, it was decided to empty the cemeteries and place the bones in the catacombs. Today, over six million skeletons are stacked neatly inside (at least the first row). It was a real treat to walk endlessly through the narrow passageways 100 feet beneath the busy streets above. The light was very dim, setting us up for an eery experience gliding past 200 year old skulls staring at us. I have never seen anything like it. 

Close to supper time, we made our way to the Sorbonne. Located in the heart of the Latin Quarter, the prestigious university is surrounded by one of the most diverse sections of Paris, and one of the oldest. The Panthéon church and nearby arena from Roman times pay homage to the district's past as the center of knowledge and antiquity. Even the restaurant has a storied history. Though opened in 1962 by three actors who wanted a place to for spectators and stars alike to mingle, the ground floor and cellars date back to the 14th century, evident by its low ceilings with large, exposed wooden beams and stone walls dotted with small fireplaces. The rotating menu serves delicious seasonal selections of traditional French cuisine. 

We met a few of Alex's friends in front of the Hotel de Ville (city hall) and wandered over to Le Marais - the gay district - to do the most Parisian thing possible: enjoy drinks while sitting outside a cafe in good company discussing the issues of the day. All that was needed were powdered wigs to come full circle from those tumultuous days of the Age of Enlightenment. 

I saved the best part of the evening for last: the Louvre and Court Napoléon all to ourselves. Completely empty, it provides the ideal opportunity to take in all the beauty and splendor of the Louvre's perfectly lit exterior. While Alex took photos, I confess that  I recreated Tom Hanks' epic final scene from The Da Vinci Code, complete with music. Standing in the courtyard looking around at the beauty while Chevaliers de Sangreal blasted into my ears was the pinnacle of self-awareness, the epitome of being in the present, and the most awe-inspiring moment of my life. 

We woke up early the next morning to go to Versailles, the palatial estate of the French Monarchy. The vast compound began as a hunting lodge for Louis XIII. It was Louis XIV who expanded it and eventually moved his court and government there. In its heyday, it was the largest palace in Europe. I had arranged for us to tour the King's Private Apartments, the by-invitation only, casual quarters of Louis XV tucked away from the formal salons and prying eyes of the courtiers. 

Through a discrete doorway…

into a private entrance hall...

we visited his office, complete with 1 ton desk that took 4 years to make

library…..

 dining room….

Louis XIV's "royal throne"….

and Louis Philippe's, the last King of France, complete with plumbing.

Lastly, our guide took us into the Royal Chapel before releasing us on our own. 

So much has changed at Versailles in the 9 years since my last visit. Many more rooms have been opened to the public and now house different interactive exhibits detailing the history of the palace and gardens. You can even visit the Opera House and attend  one of the many performances held there, or if you fancy the outdoors, garden parties, festivals, and reenactments are now common from late spring to early autumn. In the summer, there are fireworks shows. Most noticeably, the exterior of the palace has had many original features restored, including the Golden Gate which has been torn down 200 years.  

Notice the difference from my visit in 2004, and then in 2013. 

It was very cold when we finished the tour, and storms were brewing above. There was only time for a short walk around the exterior gardens before heading back to the city. With intermittent clouds, rain, and blue skies, everything the rest of the day was hit or miss. The best way to warm up was a trip to the Angelina Tearoom on Rue Rivoli (opposite Tuillery Gardens) for a cup of its famous hot chocolate -- thank you, Uncle Rick, for introducing it to me so many years ago. 

Facade along Rue Rivoli (foreground),
Palais Garnier (left)
and Sacre Coeur / Montmartre (right)

From here, we walked through the most high-end district of Paris, past Place Vendôme where the renowned Hôtel Ritz is undergoing a €250 million renovation. Beyond there the rain picked up, so Alex and I popped into a small cafe for some lunch before continuing on past several churches, the Palais Garnier, and the Madeleine, a church built in Greek-temple style honoring Napoléon's army. 

This trip to Paris had another first for me: visiting the Musée d'Orsay. A friend from the night before had recommended we catch a special exhibit - Le Masculin  a collection of paintings honoring the male nude form from 1800 to the present. It was the first time such a theme devoted completely to male nudity has been headlined by a major museum. The lines were very long, but moved quickly. In all honesty, I didn't know which was more enjoyable to look at: the paintings or the people staring in amazement. Who knew the penis was so fabulous fascinating! Fortunately the exhibit wasn't the only thing to see in the museum. It also houses the world's finest collection of modern art, including many paintings from Monet, Renoir, Picasso, Van Gogh, Degas, Cézanne, and many more. 


With the weather finally on our side, we were able to make it back to the Eiffel Tower in time for sunset. It was a wonderful ending to our grand European adventure. Exhausted, we gathered our bags and bid Paris, "adieu!" 

And just when we thought it couldn't get any better, Air France upgraded us for our return flight to Beijing. I passed out the moment we were airborne and didn't wake up until 20 minutes to landing. It was the best flight ever.