North Korea - Kumsusan Memorial Palace

Empty Roads to Kumsusan 

Beautiful snow. Clean lines. The architecture was utopian. We marched from the waiting hall to the main entrance, where we checked out coats, cameras, and bags before setting off on the mile-long escalator ride for personal reflection. It's one of those airport ones that cover a long distance; however, this one moves about 2 miles per hour, and we were not allowed to walk or talk. We had to stand still in order to reflect and prepare ourselves to see the dear leaders. There were a few photographs on the walls that show the Kim's looking at various things. What a joy. 

When we finally reached the end 25 minutes later reached, we entered the basement, and walked up to the main palace. Floor to ceiling marble in every room. There were over a thousand crystal and gold chandeliers. Ornate plaster designs encase the 10 ft. high mahogany doors with gold handles. The halls were somewhat cold, but warmer than anything else we would visit. In the main entrance hall we approached two 17 ft. high white statues of Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il in front of a white infinity backdrop faintly illuminated by twilight colored lights. We were instructed to approach these statues slowly and bow, before moving along to Kim Il Sung's resting place.

Kim Jong Il  laying in state.  
Photo courtesy of The Telegraph

We passed through a wind machine to blow off any particles or dirt, and then entered the large, barely lit room where Kim Il Sung lays in state in the center. We had to form up in lines of four, approach, and bow three times as we walk around him: once at his feet, and once on each side. There was faint patriotic music playing in the background. From this room, we moved into a nearby hall displaying all the awards, medals,  and honorary diplomas he received from all over the world. I'm fairly convinced half the things were fabricated. We'd find peculiar artifacts, such as an honorary doctorate from Kensington University in California. There were also letters and decorations from Billy Graham - what a traitor. Overall it was just a bunch of junk to impress his people. The next room housed his private train coach and several different automobiles. 

Kim Jong Il was next. His was basically the exact same thing we saw of Kim Il Sung, except in this exhibit there was additionally Kim Jong Il's private yacht - which really was quite crap to say the least (not that I have boat); it looked like a nice version of a tug boat. And like his father, Kim Jong Il also had tons of awards and merits displayed that are bunches of sh*t, his private train car and two automobiles. 

The real kicker in all of this is seeing the extravagance. North Koreans truly believe that the Kim's live like the rest of them, and can't comprehend the fact that this palace (ahem, "Presidential Office" building) represents the inequality of their state. They know nothing of the personal lives of their leaders, nor any idea where they live or who their relatives or friends are; the wives or children are seldom mentioned. State secrets. But I was sick to my stomach. I couldn't grasp that the leadership spends so much money on their luxurious lifestyle and on missiles, nuclear development, and other military projects, yet the people [they serve] are starving and there is barely any form of reliable utilities. 

We were back on the mile long escalator to reflect upon what we had just seen (and hold down the vomit). We walked around outside and witnessed people shoveling snow; interestingly, they were putting it in tarp bags. I never saw where they were taking them.