San Carlos de Bariloche - Patagonia

Uncle Rick and I left Buenos Aires and headed south to Patagonia for some much needed rest & recreation. Along the eastern edge of the Andes lies an alpine lake district, and our destination, San Carlos de Bariloche. The area could best be described as a untouched version of Switzerland, an outdoor lover's paradise. From the airport we passed several ecosystems - beginning on the edge of the desert and ending in an alpine forest. 

Lake Moreno 

Approaching our hotel, the Llao Llao Resort, I was overtaken with goosebumps when I noticed the lodge's striking resemblance to the setting of The Shinning. Thankfully for safety sake the hotel was fully booked. That evening over drinks at the bar, Rick and I struck up a conversation with some nice people seated next to us. Who could have guessed they were from [of all places] Charlottesville, Virginia. We even had mutual acquaintances and friends. I couldn't figure out any other explanation other than there are no coincidences.

We took a half-day horseback ride at the Tom Wesley Ranch.  Many people were in our group yet no one spoke English - not even the guides. We saddled up and made our way up a steep trail zigzagging around the mountain, the trail barely wide enough for the horse to walk. My riding skills (rather lack-thereof) meant I was at the way back. In my defense, the horse in front of me evidently didn't like my horse at all. Every time we tried to scoot ahead, it would snap at us. Rick told me to smack the horse's butt to get it to listen, but frankly I wasn't prepared to try new things on an unfamiliar animal with nothing between me and a 700 ft. drop. 

Halfway through our ride we split from the rest of the group and headed down to the shores of Lake Moreno. My riding abilities improved significantly as the horse was much more responsive. Walking around the lake gave my now sore buttocks a much needed rest. The crystal clear water came in several shades of blue. 

I had convinced Uncle Rick to go skydiving with me, but unfortunately the weather was too rough for the day we set aside. After a quick regrouping we took the opportunity to charter a boat to Victoria Island. It is perhaps most famous for being the inspiration for the forest setting of Disney's Bambi. The water was very choppy but thankfully I didn't get sea sick either going or coming. 

A hidden, cliff top lodge offered breathtaking panoramic views and a delicious lunch. Afterwards, the owner's nephew drove us around the island to show off the flora and fauna. While the lodge is only open during the summer, a group of park rangers and their families occupy the island year round. 

The water looks better suited for the tropics

For such a popular area I was surprised at the lack of restaurants. Several were considered quite good though they only had a small number of tables - nothing out of the ordinary except that they generally only had one seating for the night. At one we dined at, a beautiful cabin with huge viewing windows to see the lake, there were only seven tables, most of which were two-tops on a table big enough for four. I couldn't understand why the owner wouldn't want to squeeze in a few extra or let alone offer a second seating later in the evening. 

Are we in the Alps?

It was in Bariloche that I discovered the concept I call "Argentime" - neither writing down nor remembering anything asked, but once it is remembered, do it as slow as humanly possible. Example: I asked for some water; 20 minutes later, the waiter comes back and says, "I can't remember if I was supposed to bring you something." [Yes, bring me water.] Another 10 minutes passes, and the water finally arrives. Argentime. This didn't just apply to restaurants either. Hotels, shops, airports, everything operates on Argentime. Enough said. 

New Years Eve day served me sweet revenge against Uncle Rick. For the past year all he had been talking about was him competing in Dancing With the Stars doing the Argentine Tango. A few years earlier on another trip with him, he pointed out that I had two left feet and certainly would never learn to dance. Once our trip was planned, I began taking tango lessons in secret. Only Alex knew. 

Fresh snow our last night

The previous evening, Uncle Rick and I watched the ending of a tango performance in the hotel, and decided to ask the dancers if they would give us a lesson the next day. They agreed. When we showed up for the lesson, I played really dumb until we were separated. While Rick was busy looking at his feet, the lady and I started doing laps around him until he finally looked up and his jaw dropped to the floor. I had shown him up, and for the rest of the trip, and back at home, it was all he could talk about. 

The town of Bariloche was very small, much like Aspen, with more touristy shops and fewer restaurants. It wasn't the reason we came here though. The fresh mountain air, beautiful lakes, and pristine wilderness full of hiking trails and many other outdoor activities were the reasons I recommend anyone to visit.